2014年5月22日星期四

What are Eau De Toilette, Eau De Parfum, etc?


These terms refer to the strength of the fragrance, or more specifically, to how much high grade alcohol and/or water has been added to the fragrance oils. Parfum (generally the most concentrated form you can buy) has 15-25% perfume oil dissolved in alcohol. Any mixture with a lower proportion of oil to alcohol is an eau (water).
Eau Fraiche (Usually 3% or less perfume oil)
Eau de Cologne (2 - 5% perfume oil)
Eau de Toilette (4 - 10% perfume oil)
Eau de Parfum (8 - 15% perfume oil)
Soie de Parfum (15 - 18% perfume oil)
PARFUM or Perfume (15 - 25% -- also sometimes referred to as extract or extrait)
Perfume oil (15-30% perfume oil in an oil rather than alcohol base)
You may also see the term Parfum de Toilette. Most companies use this term to describe a concentration that is either the same as Eau De Parfum, or between Eau De Parfum and Parfum. Other companies use the term to describe an Eau De Toilette concentration.
To further confuse matters, some companies use different notes, or different proportions of notes, in the different forms of fragrance they offer. In addition, some companies reserve costly fragrance oils for their parfum, and use synthetic substitutes in lighter concentrations.

How can I make my perfume last longer on my skin?

All other things being equal, perfumes evaporate more rapidly from dry skin, so the best way to make fragrance last longer is to use a relatively heavy body lotion or cream. Some people like to buy the "matching" cream for their fragrance, but you can also use an unscented cream like Cetaphil, or try petroleum jelly or jojoba oil. You might also try a light mist to your hair, which is said to hold scent longer than skin. For more discussion on this topic, see 




Perfume’s persistence can be a blessing or a curse. It’s Murphy’s Law among perfume enthusiasts that the fragrance we loathe the most will be the one that wears through a night’s sleep and a shower, and clings to our coats through two thunderstorms and a dry cleaning. Conversely, the fragrances we love never seem to last long enough. Sure, I like to wear more than one perfume a day, but it would be nice if a perfume could soldier through a full workday without my having to rummage for a decant for a midday boost.
So, I loaded an atomizer with Guerlain Vol de Nuit Eau de Toilette and experimented:

The baseline

One spray of Vol de Nuit Eau de Toilette alone lasts about four hours before I really have to press my nose to flesh to smell it. It’s lovely enough to be worth it, but no one except me, with effort, can detect it after lunch.

The fail

Surprisingly, Eau de Toilette sprayed over shea butter gives a maximum two hours of fragrance. After breakfast, I thinly spread pure shea butter, which doesn’t have a lot of odor on its own, over my forearm and misted it with Vol de Nuit. By the time I got to work, the shea butter had eaten the fragrance, and the faint “nutty-stick” odor of shea butter was a little more robust, like it had just had a good meal. Meanwhile, the arm with Eau de Toilette alone was still going strong.

The questionable

Eau de Toilette on clothing lasts all day, but with drawbacks. Fragrance on cloth doesn’t wear as warm nor personal as it does on skin. Something about the effect of a person’s body chemistry, the blood coursing through her skin, brings a perfume to bloom better than the cold but efficient fibers of a sweater. Plus, if you spray your sweater or the inside of your coat with fragrance, it will stay smelling that way for days, even when you might want to switch perfume. Unless you have a signature scent or enough coats to dedicate one to each fragrance, think twice about spraying your clothing.
The one exception is if you spray fragrance on a scarf. I’ve heard that at Caron in Paris, the SAs will spray your scarf with perfume so you can try it for a day. A scarf is an exception because (1) it wears close to your skin so it can warm and diffuse something — although not exactly — like skin can; and (2) unlike with a coat or sweater, on day two you can trade in a scarf for a fresh one and scent it with another fragrance. But how many of you wear scarves? I do, but looking around I know I’m in the minority.
Here's another questionable way to wear fragrance: spray Eau de Toilette on a cotton ball and tuck it in your bra. Robin told me about this trick. I tried it, but I only lasted a few hours before I yanked it out (although I admit it was an awfully nice-smelling cotton ball to toss in the trash). A bra that fits well tacks to the rib cage. It shouldn’t hold anything except a tampon on a quick trip to the lavatory when you don’t want to be obvious by carrying your purse. Stick a cotton ball in there for long and it’s an itchy distraction.

The winners

Eau de Toilette over fragrance-free moisturizer adds a third more life to the fragrance. I used First Aid Beauty’s Ultra Repair Cream, which on its own smells faintly medicinal but goes on like whipped cream and absorbs quickly. Over the cream, Vol de Nuit continued its vol straight and true for about six hours. Not bad.
Parfum over Eau de Toilette is marvelous and burns quietly from breakfast until dinner — a good nine hours. This isn’t the budget-friendly way to wear fragrance, but with Vol de Nuit it’s a magical combination. The Eau de Toilette is crisp and diffusive, but a drop of Parfum over it adds warm, sweet, sandalwood-rich depth. It wears off just in time to top it off with more Vol de Nuit parfum for the evening, or switch to something complimentary with wood or patchouli, like Chanel Bois des Iles, Caron Nuit de Noel, Chanel Coromandel, or Christian Dior Dioressence.

The ultimate

Parfum over Eau de Toilette over fragrance-free body cream. With this combination I won the double prize of endurance plus depth of fragrance.
Since I don’t have Vol de Nuit lotion, I didn’t try Eau de Toilette over same-scented lotion or cream, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it were effective, too, at making perfume last. To some extent that defeats the purpose — body cream is usually expensive enough that why not just buy another bottle of perfume? — but I could see where it would work well. Please comment if you've tried it.

Chanel Chance, Eau Fraiche and Eau Tendre : Fragrance Reviews

Perfumer Jacques Polge has authored or co-authored so many of my favorite Chanel fragrances (BeigeCoromandelCristalle Eau de ParfumCoco) that it always pains me to admit that he has also authored my least-favorite Chanel scent, Chance.  Chance always smells to me as if a brand of lesser and striving quality decided to make something “à la Chanel” in style and came up with Chance.


I understand where marketing was going with this scent—that extremely lucrative twenty-something market must be addressed and not with No. 5.  In its fruit, vanilla, and patchouli trope Chance has the ingredients to appeal to this younger market and from that marketing standpoint Chance was a smart idea indeed; the scent does sell and sell well. I smell it on young girls in the mall, their hair swinging and their limbs tanned, and it doesn’t smell any better to me on them than it does on me.
With its gumbo of lemon-pastel vanilla, pink pepper, and patchouli, Chance is still on trend a decade after its release. It’s oddly unisex for something so clearly aimed at young women, and the abstract floral (hyacinth, iris, jasmine) is no match for certain of Chanel’s more sophisticated bouquets. It has no signature nor sigh factor when the usually gorgeous Chanel bouquets release their bloom.  Instead, there’s a musky rose lollipop stuck into a cotton-candy-and-patchouli balloon.  As with Coco Mademoiselle, this reads as sticky on my skin.  The patchouli is too sharp and cloying, the synthetic that renders the candy smells too false.
What puzzles me is how the house can issue the brilliant No 5 Eau Première and No 19 Poudré and then dumb down so much for the younger market, as if that market should not be able to recognize or know anything else.  In that respect, there’s an analogy to the street chic found in mall retailers, except that Chance is eminently more durable than the here today, gone tomorrow fashion trends.
Chanel Eau Tender
Chanel Eau Fraiche

In an attempt to overcome my objections, I wore both of the Chance flankers through several weeks this spring.  Eau Fraîche, a lighter, lemony and aquatic version with a pronounced “water hyacinth” note.  This was somewhat more successful, although ultimately the same sticky candied patchouli bored through the floral and overtook it.  Eau Tendre is the pretty-in-pink version that adds a blush of sweet grapefruit and powder to the mix.
Neither worked for me, but in their defense I will say that the mall is full of blockbuster scents that do not work for me, and that I can enter a Sephora and spray nothing—fun does not follow money.  Still, Chance is a clear cut above celebrity fruit juice and in its lack of formality it will go far as a casual scent. As they say, your mileage may vary and it probably will.  It’s just that given a choice, I’m going to reach for Eau Premiere again, each and every time.

Chloé Roses de Chloé RM310

Chloé Roses de Chloé 

By all rights, Roses de Chloé is what the first Chloé release should smell like. The original Karl Lagerfeld Chloé from the mid-70s was a voluptuous white floral, but Chloé relaunched it as a clean rose in 2008. The problem is, it’s too clean, with so much white musk overwhelming the formula that it smells far more like a laundry room than a rose garden.
                                counter price RM447                                            our price RM310
Last year’s L’Eau de Chloé, a greener version with more patchouli, was an obvious improvement – and so is this one, with its clearer, more realistic floral accord of tea rose with gestures toward springtime-y linden and lily of the valley. There’s nothing particularly unusual about it (this is a rose soliflore folks, not a moon walk), but it smells fresh, young, and pretty without smelling faux-fruity (though I do pick up a crisp apple note) or cheap. In fact, it reminds me at times of pricier niche scents like Annick Goutal Rose SplendideParfum de Rosine’s Rose d’Été and Yosh Sottile. If you’re looking for a simple rose scent at Macy’s or Sephora, you could do far worse and these days, couldn’t do much better.
Roses de Chloé is authored by perfumers Michel Almairac and Mylène Alran. It includes notes of bergamot, magnolia, Damascena rose, white musk, and amber .

2014年5月21日星期三

BURBERRY BRIT FOR MEN RM180

                                              柜台价RM345                        促销价RM180

产品介绍
【香  调】清新东方木质调
【前  调】绿柑橘、佛手柑、姜、霜冻豆蔻
【中  调】野玫瑰、雪松、肉豆蔻
【后  味】东方木材、灰麝香、熏草豆
清新的东方木质调男香,独特前味混合了多汁的绿柑橘 、霜冻小荳蔻及佛手柑的清香,中味散发出野玫瑰的优雅、肉荳蔻的辛辣,以及雪松的鲜明基调。此外,后味展现出东方木质调香气中混合灰麝香及熏草豆的气味,使男人的性感与阳刚味得以同时呈现

                                      

  • 产品名称:Burberry Brit Rhythm 淡香...
  • 颜色分类: 风格 简装 风格 正装
  • 香水分类: 香水EDP
  • 净含量:100mL 
  • 适用人群: 男士
  • 香味: 柑橘 佛手柑 玫瑰 松木香型 麝香味 姜
  • 香调: 树木香调 东方香调
  • 规格类型: 正常规格
  • 适用性别: 男
  • 品牌: BURBERRY/博柏利
  • Burberry/巴宝莉: 英伦风格男香
  • 适合肤质: 任何肤质
  • 产地: 法国
  • 保质期: 5年

BURBERRY BRIT WOMEN RM210

                                                 
                                            柜台价RM370                           促销价RM210
香水香调:
香调:清新花果香调
前味:意大利莱姆、冰梨、青绿扁桃仁
中味:甜味杏仁糖、白色芍药
后味:香草、顿加豆、琥珀、桃花心木
个性点评:
香氛的前味一阵舒服的莱姆、冰梨与坚果,让人忘了春天的模样。
中后味甜美温暖的杏仁糖、芍药、香草和琥珀,让人开始学会自恋,忘了空气的存在!
风格呈现出纯正的大英伦敦风,方正的外型搭配经典格纹,优雅又抢眼。简单流畅而直接,展现出强烈的品牌精神与个性美。献给现代都会独立自主的女性。
香 氛是韵味复杂的东方植物香氛,清新、甜美、以及余韵中隐约的温暖,自然舒适的香氛。头调是清新爽朗的意大利青柠、梨子及青杏仁的清凉气味,那一瞬间,昏沉 的大脑变得清朗,清新而又愉悦……中调是性感甜美的甜杏仁及白牡丹,甜美的让你忘记了空气的存在,引发纯然的舒适怡然。基调是温暖的琥珀及红木,温和内 敛,混和香草及香豆的宁神幽香…
适用人群:
适合小资型、事业型、文艺型、时尚爱美型、社交玩乐型的MM

                           


  • 产品名称:Burberry/巴宝莉 英伦风格...
  • 香水分类: 香水EDP
  • 适用人群: 女士
  • 香味: 香草 香桃木 COOPER/琥珀 Candy/糖果 其他/other
  • 香调: 花果香调
  • 规格类型: 正常规格
  • 适用性别: 女
  • 品牌: BURBERRY/博柏利
  • Burberry/巴宝莉: 英伦风格女香
  • 适合肤质: 任何肤质
  • 产地: 法国
  • 保质期: 5年
  • 净含量: 100mL

香水使用违忌

香水使用违忌
1.香水不要洒在易被太阳晒到的暴露部位。因为香水中的香料有些是从天然植物中提取的挥发油,这些挥发油中有的含有呋喃香豆精的成份,如香柠檬油等,若喷洒在面部以及易被太阳晒到的部位,日光中的长波紫外线就会与皮肤上喷洒的这些化学物质相结合,出现光化学反应,最后导致脸上出现皮肤炎症和点状黑斑。
2.香水不宜直接擦在脸上及过敏性皮肤上面。由于香水含有较多量的酒精,尤其是花露水,酒精含量更多些,刺激性较大,故脸部及易过敏的皮肤和婴儿皮肤都不宜直接擦在上面。
3.香水不宜总是直接洒在皮肤上,因为皮肤若长期受酒精的刺激可能会产生过敏现象。所以应变换使用方法,可根据情况,有时将香水洒在衣料上散发香味。
4.香水不宜过浓或洒得过多,不然会适得其反,还易导致嗅觉障碍症,于精神不利,另外也易给人一种孤傲浮华、孤芳自赏的感觉。
5.香水不宜涂在额上、腋下和鞋内等易出汗的部位。因为这些部位汗液多,易将香水冲淡,而且汗味和香味混合会产生怪异气味。
6.香水不宜喷洒在毛皮、黄金和珍珠等服饰品上,因为香水会使它们失去天然光泽。
7.两种不同的香水不宜混在一起使用,混合后的香味会使原来的每一种香水都失去纯味,且很可能闻起来极不舒服。